There are certainly a lot of benefits to having piston oil squirters / jets, which came stock on the turbo 6G72 DOHC engines. They help cool the stock cast piston and most likely help with wrist pin and cylinder bore life.

The downside is the 2 center main journals already feed 4 rods and themselves and we are also asking them to feed 4 jets that are in theory closed below 30 PSI.

The issue to me, personally, is that its impossible to tell what the localized flow/pressure is in the oil system at those 2 center mains and they almost always seem to be worn worse than the outside too.

There are some steps that could be taken to help equalize this flow, such as restrictors on the outside 2 main bearing journal feeds or boring out the center two feeds, but those are outside the scope of this post.

Since we have forged pistons in the Stealth shop car, we are going to eliminate the oil squirters in order to save more of our oil flow for the bearings.

There is obviously more than one way to do this (you could weld shut the squiters for instance), but we felt really comfortable doing it this way. Its cheap and easy and requires no special parts.

Preparation

You will need to have your crankshaft removed for this operation, so your best bet is to do this while you are doing other work.

It is critical to cover your main bearing journal feeds with some tape as this is going to create some shavings. Be careful and clean your engine carefully when done.

We apologize we don’t have a pic of knocking these out, but these are the squirters. Use a long punch and knock them out from the top after removing the pistons.

You will need a fresh 1/4 – 20 tap. Coat it with grease to capture as many shavings as you can and clean between uses.

Carefully tap the squiters holes. Be sure they are the SQUITER holes and not the main journal feeds or you will lock your engine up instantly. The tap will be at an angle, because that is the direction the jets pointed. Be careful and back off every half a turn. You DO NOT want to break a tap off in your block.

When you are done you should have nice threads like this.

Have some layout fluid, it will help with the next step.

Get a sharpening/honing stone.

Put some layout fluid around the hole you just tapped and let it dry.

Slowly run the hone back and forth parallel to the main cap until you are sure any burrs from taping are gone. A high spot here will ruin your bearing. Do not try to remove any material from the block, we are just trying to get rid of any high spots.

Get some 1/4 – 20 set screws. 3/8 or 1/2 deep works great. Coat them in RED or GREEN high strength thread locker.

Screw it in carefully until it bottoms out, make sure you don’t block the flow of oil by having it above the bottom of the groove.

Clean it all up and do it 6 times and you are done!

In this article we will quickly illustration how easy it is to shim your oil pump relief valve on your 3000GT or Dodge Stealth 6G72 engine.

This oil pump is from a 4-bolt 6G72, but the principal should apply to any 6G oil pump. The relief valve is designed to bypass oil around the oil pump and back to the pan once about 70 PSI is hit. Particularly useful on cold starts where pressure may go over 100 PSI, even with the relief wide open.

The benefit of this is higher peak oil pressure, which can help with high RPM or high load situations. It will not increase your idle oil pressure or any condition where your pressure is already below about 65-70 PSI.

This is just one washer and we don’t have data yet on exactly how much this raised peak pressure, but we will post before and after oil pressure datalogs in the future.

Remove the 22mm bolt on the bottom of the pump housing.

The spring and bolt.

Place one ordinary 6mm washer inside the nut where the spring seat is.

Now, just re-install the nut and torque to 33 ft. lbs. It may fight you, but be careful not to cross thread it.

More extreme users may choose more than one washer, but this is probably enough.

Like many performance oriented decisions it can be difficult sometimes to chose the right clutch. Today we will talk about the most commonly selected clutch types for a performance manual transmission car, especially a high performance turbo car like the 3000GT VR4 or Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo.

The first step is to be realistic about four things.

Performance level of your engine

Everyone wants to make 1000 HP, but its very important when choosing to modify your car that you are realistic about your real goals. Building a performance vehicle is about balance and careful planning. You don’t want a clutch designed to cope with 1000 HP in your 320 HP car. The driving experience will most likely be pretty miserable on the street and a clutch like that is usually quite hard on the drivetrain.

Intended Driving Style, Percent Street vs Race

The other critical factor about choosing a performance clutch, especially for an AWD vehicle that can often NOT be traction limited is to be honest about the intended use of the vehicle. If you go to the track once a week you are going to want a more race oriented clutch than someone who goes once a year or never.

Driver Skill and Tolerance for Driving Compromise

The final thing to be especially cognizant of is your particular skill level and your tolerance for a car that can be a little harder to drive, especially in stop and go traffic. If you have no tolerance for a clutch that acts like an on/off switch its important to be real about that and choose a street friendly clutch.

Budget Considerations

Once you have decided your intended power level, the intended use of the car, and your drive skill the next consideration is your budget. Performance clutches for the 3000GT and Dodge Stealth AWD clutches typically start out at about $350 and can go up into the thousands for twin disc units. Be realistic about your budget, and also realize this may not be a one time expense. Clutches wear and even can fail under extreme abuse, you are unlikely to buy one clutch and have it for the life of your vehicle if you drive hard and keep the car for a while. Some of the twin disc units are designed to be rebuilt, but often the rebuild cost can exceed that of a standard single disc type of clutch.

At the same time it is worth buying a known brand, rather than saving a small amount of money, due to the labor of removing and replacing one of these AWD transmissions being so intensive.

Clutch for Stock OEM+ Power Levels

If you have a very mildly modified AWD or FWD 3000GT or Dodge Stealth you may wish to use a clutch made by the same company that made the original clutches these cars came with and made to OEM specifications. The Exedy OEM level clutch will be great for a stock car or a car with just some basic bolt-ons, such as an air intake and exhaust, that spends most of its time on the street. 

Exedy 1991-1996 Dodge Stealth V6 Stage 1 Organic Clutch

Exedy OE 1991-1996 Dodge Stealth V6 Clutch Kit

Full Street Clutches

Full Street clutches will typically be based on a stock organic type of friction material, will contain springs in the center hub, and be very easy to drive. They can stand drag strip runs at the track, but should be given plenty of time to cool down between runs and not slipped excessively. On the 3000GT/Dodge Stealth platform a full face street clutch can be pushed surprisingly far. We have no issues pushing our person DR750 500+AWHP car on a street clutch very similar to the ACT street clutch. We have run the ACT street clutch at the track and as a daily driver and find it to be VERY easy to use. Besides a stiffer pedal (and holding up to a launch and being able to bark the tires into 2nd) no one would even really know it was not stock.

Spec 90-99 3-0L VR4 Dodge Stealth Stage 2 Clutch Kit

Spec 90-99 3-0L VR4 Dodge Stealth Stage 1 Clutch Kit

ACT 1991 Dodge Stealth HD-Perf Street Sprung Clutch Kit

Street / Strip Clutches

Street/Strip clutches may often be of a puck design, but maintain the sprung hub. The very aggressive grabby nature of the puck design can actually tend to tear out the springs in the center hub on repeated very hard launches. This is not common in a quality clutch, but has been known to happen with some brands.

If your car lives on the drag strip you may want to continue down and select a clutch without springs. The springs help cushion the clutch just slightly, but their primary purpose is to dampen harmonics and rattles and lessen input shaft wear.

South Bend - DXD Racing Clutch 91-99 Mitsubishi 3000GT Turbo 3-0L Stg 2 Drag Clutch Kit

Spec 96-03 Eclipse 2-4L & 90-98 3000gt NA not VR4 Stage 3+ Clutch Kit

Spec 90-98 Mitsubishi 3000GT - 90-99 Dodge Stealth Stage 3+ Clutch Kit

ACT 1991 Dodge Stealth HD-Race Sprung 6 Pad Clutch Kit

Race Clutches

A race style single disc clutch will often be a pucked design, but the springs have been removed and replaced with a solid riveted hub. This leads to having less parts to break, but may be a little more brutal in engagement, may lead to rattle at idle and harmonics at certain speeds, and may lead to slightly more input shaft spline wear. The rivets are not invincible and may still be damaged under considerable abuse, but should last longer than a sprung hub design. One other good feature of a springless design is the disc is lighter, which takes some stress off the transmission synchronizers.

The SPEC 4+ LW is a favorite of ours. Other than its narrow engagement window you could think it was a normal street clutch. Easily and smoothly slippage, quite, and releases cleanly. Lighter design for less stress on your transmission synchronizers.

Spec 90-98 Mitsubishi 3000GT - 90-99 Dodge Stealth Stage 4+ Clutch Kit light weight version

Spec 96-03 Eclipse 2-4L & 90-98 3000gt NA not VR4 Stage 4 Clutch Kit

Spec 90-99 3-0L VR4 Dodge Stealth Stage 5 Clutch Ki RACE ONLY

ACT 1991 Dodge Stealth HD-Race Rigid 6 Pad Clutch Kit

Twin Disc Street Strip Clutches

OK, now we are talking. We are stepping up to race clutches that can be driven on the street. We personally ran the strapped street/strip clutch during a 1500 mile drag and drive event. We ran an 11.2, did 25+ passes, and drove the 1500 miles of street driving and had zero issues. After removing it we saw zero wear on the clutch. We did a ton of launches and burn outs and LOVE this clutch.

These clutches will certainly take some adjustments to your driving technique. They are slippable, but the engagement window is very narrow and you can’t slip them all day or they will start to have release issues. They really need a good launch every once in a while to keep them from getting sticky.

One other good feature of a twin disc modern design is the moment of inertial from the smaller discs is less and they release cleanly at high rpm, which takes some stress off the transmission synchronizers.

These clutches are easily rebuildable, you can change them to more race oriented features, and the strapped design, requested and tested here at R’venge Performance has zero rattle and just an occasional squeek during engagement (from the ceramic disc). You CAN live with this every day if you get used to it, but its not your grandma’s clutch.

Clutch Masters 90-97 Mitsubishi 3000GT 3-0L 4WD Twin Turbo 850 Strapped Series Clutch w-Steel FW

Clutch Masters 90-97 Mitsubishi 3000GT 3-0L 4WD Twin Turbo 850 Series Race Clutch w-Steel Flywheel

Clutch Masters 90-97 Mitsubishi 3000GT 3-0L 4WD Twin Turbo 850 Strapped Series Clutch w-Steel FW

The speedometer sensor on all turbo 91-99 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 and Dodge Stealth R/T turbos is a electrical signal based sensor. The 93+ FWD cars are also electronic.

The sensor is compatible with the Haltech Elite 2500 and other ECUs and we will show a calibration that has proven close. It can be tweaked for your setup.

You will need to use a SPI input on the Haltech for this to work.